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King of Breakfast Bill Granger dies from cancer in London

Written by Aksel Ritenis

King of Breakfast Bill Granger dies from cancer in London

Prominent Australian chef Bill Granger has died “peacefully” at age 54 in a London hospital.The news was shared on Instagram by his family, who wrote with “great sadness” that the acclaimed chef had died on Christmas Day.

Bill Granger was a  dedicated husband and father, Bill died peacefully in hospital with his wife Natalie Elliott and three daughters, Edie, Ines and Bunny at his bedside in their adopted home of London. Bill had apparently been diagnosed  with cancer some months earlier..

Bill Granger, was an Australian restaurateur and food writer, who rose to prominence in the United Kingdom and other markets and was revered  by family cooks and sophisticated foodies alike. Bill’s sunny, relaxed and quintessentially Australian approach to food was  an essential element in his enduring popularity.

“In 1993 Bill dropped out of art school and opened his first restaurant, bills, in Sydney’s Darlinghurst. The little corner site was soon legendary for its fresh flavours and breakfasts,served at a central communal table, where locals and travellers, families and friends still thrive on the produce-led dishes and buzzing atmosphere. In 2008 bills went international, starting in Tokyo, and on to London and Seoul. There are now 19 restaurants worldwide.”

Bill has variously been crowned ‘egg master of Sydney’ (New York Times 2002), ‘king of breakfast’ (The Telegraph Magazine (UK) 2016), and ‘creator of avocado toast’ (Washington Post 2016) and became the restaurateur most responsible for the Australian cafe’s global reach’ (The New Yorker 2018).

Bill wrote  12 cookbooks in total ,which sold more than 1 million copies, and made five cookery TV series that are still viewed in over 30 countries.  His beautifully designed restaurants serve over 1.5 million people a year worldwide.

It is generally accepted that every Bill Granger restaurant irrespective of its location ,reflects the spirit we like to think of as ‘Australian’: sunny, easy-going and generous. Bill opened his first restaurant in Sydney’s Darlinghurst in 1993. It soon became loved for its legendary breakfasts, served at the famous central communal table, where locals and travellers, families and friends, continue to be welcomed. Thirty years later, Bill’s relaxed, friendly and infectious joy

Poached eggs with Avocado and Coriander at Bills restaurant Bondi (Photo by Axel Ritenis / Sydney Times Archives) 

The legendary scrambled eggs arrive at the table of Granger & Co, at 175 Westbourne Grove,in London  and expectations are always high.  The scrambled egg dish  gave Granger his title “egg master of Sydney” reputation. The secret according to Bill “was that the eggs were folded, not beaten?”  And no milk is added, just cream! Today Bills legacy is that his restaurants with his particular Australian style menu using  good, fresh food has become truly global, and is enjoyed at his restaurants in Sydney, Seoul, Tokyo and London.

 

Poached eggs with Avocado and Coriander at Bills restaurant Bondi (Photo by Axel Ritenis / Sydney Times Archives) 

The menu at Bill’s restaurants comprised his  favourite dishes for every occasion, from lazy breakfasts to late-night suppers to lunch for a crowd. In choosing them, Bill drew on all his fondest food memories, including dishes from a variety of different countries.

“From lamb tagine to prawn laksa, Thai beef salad to chocolate brownies, chicken burritos to creme caramel, this is the repertoire that every home cook wants to master. The recipes for all his dishes were published in his best selling book Bill’s Basics which quickly became the essential book that all home cooks still turn to time and again.”

Bills restaurant Bondi (Photo by Axel Ritenis / Sydney Times Archives) 

*Interesting information available in Wikepedia shared here for the benefit of Sydney Times Readers 

Granger spent his childhood in the back of his father’s butcher’s shop in Melbourne, yet “food wasn’t that important,” in his family, he says. “For my mother’s generation, cooking was a domestic chore to rebel against.”

His parents separated and he says: “We never sat down together as a family, so for me food was a way of bringing the family together … Food is a conduit to good relationships.”

It was on that basis that he built his success in Sydney with “straightforward, casual and everyday” cooking in cafés to hang out in with friends and recipes with short ingredient lists.
But for this venture Granger left behind his beloved Australia, exporting his entire family – his wife and business partner Natalie and their three daughters Edie, 11; Ines, nine, and Bunny, seven – to turn them from Sydneysiders into Londoners.

In the late 1980s, Granger relocated from Melbourne to Sydney to study art. He worked as a waiter while he studied art. His interest moved from art to food. In 1993, he opened a restaurant called Bills in the Sydney suburb of Darlinghurst. Breakfast, and, more specifically, creamy scrambled eggs, brought Granger to the public’s attention. A second restaurant, Bills Surry Hills, opened in 1996. Bills Woollahra was his third restaurant.[2]

In 2008, he opened the first Bills restaurant outside Australia in Japan, where he had lived for half a year. Since then, he has opened eight restaurants in Japan, in regions such as Tokyo, Yokohama, Kamakura, Fukuoka and Osaka.[3]

In 2011, Granger opened his first UK restaurant, Granger & Co, in London’s Westbourne Grove.[4] In the spring of 2014, Granger opened a second London-based Granger & Co in Clerkenwell and a new Bills restaurant in Hawaii.In that same year, he also opened his first restaurant in Seoul, and had two restaurants in the country.

Media work

In 2004, the six-part series, Bill’s Food, followed Granger for a week. It was well received in Australia and subsequently screened on BBC2 in the United Kingdom in 2005, drawing an audience of 2 million. The series was repeated on BBC1 and was shown in 22 other countries. In June 2006, Granger appeared on GMTV to present a week-long barbecue special filmed in the South of France. A second series of Bill’s Food was aired on various networks. In 2009 a seven-part television series, Bill’s Holiday, was released featuring Granger’s travels exploring the varying regions and produce of Australia.

In 2011, Bill Granger became The Independent on Sunday’s weekly food columnist.[10]

A ten-part television series bringing Granger’s food to West London, Bill’s Kitchen: Notting Hill, aired from June 2013 on BBC Lifestyle in Poland, South Africa, Asia, the Middle East, and the Nordic Region; on BBC HD in EMEA and LatAm; and on BBC Entertainment in Latin America.[11]

Personal life

Granger was born to a vegetarian mother and a father who worked as a butcher.

Granger spent his childhood in the back of his father’s butcher’s shop in Melbourne, yet “food wasn’t that important,” in his family, he says. “For my mother’s generation, cooking was a domestic chore to rebel against.”His parents separated and he says: “We never sat down together as a family, so for me food was a way of bringing the family together … Food is a conduit to good relationships.”

It was on that basis that he built his success in Sydney with “straightforward, casual and everyday” cooking in cafés to hang out in with friends and recipes with short ingredient lists.

London adventure 

Bill  Granger left  his beloved Australia, exporting his entire family – his wife and business partner Natalie and their three daughters Edie, 11; Ines, nine, and Bunny, seven – to turn them from Sydneysiders into Londoners in 2009.

“People said, ‘Why are you moving here? You’ve come from sunshine and the beach’,” explains the 42-year-old, who has been living a rented house around the corner from the new restaurant since they arrived in 2009 “with no contacts, no job to come to and just five suitcases. It was a bit of a midlife crisis, it was classic timing.” He had just turned 40.

But Granger insists that they came “not because for the first time in history the dollar was strong and we could afford to pay the rent, no,” but because “I was expecting adventure and inspiration – and I’ve got it, in buckets and spades.”

Now his three girls are growing up with London accents. And Granger says he has become “more humble and more self-aware.”

Hi main venture London venture was in the poular retail and retaurant district  of Westbourne Grove just down the road from the Tourist mecca of bayswater full of Weekend Euro tourists and Australians alike.

The  Westbourne Grove venue was  designed to be “all about light and fresh food,” in true Australian style. “It’s casual, you can stay all day. It’s not a dining experience, it’s a place to eat,” he explained  at the time.

On Boxing Day 2023 Granger’s family announced that he had died on Christmas Day in a London hospital at the age of 54. It is believed that Granger died of cancer after being diagnosed with it many months previously.

 

Books

Granger wrote Bill’s Sydney Food (Murdoch Books, 2000) which included information about the food in his restaurants. That book was followed by Bill’s Food (2002), Bill’s Open Kitchen (2003), Simply Bill (2005), Bill Granger Every Day (2006), Holiday (2009), Bill’s Basic’s (2010), Bill’s Everyday Asian (2011), Bill Granger Easy (2012), Bill’s Italian Food (2014) and Australian Food (2020).

To book Bill’s Sydney Restaurants

Website:  bills.com.au

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About the author

Aksel Ritenis

Publisher and Custodian of the Sydney Times

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